New Catch

When i go plane spotting, one thing that i hope for is to be able to catch something new.

Whether it’s a new type of aircraft or a new airline, seeing something new makes an afternoon plane spotting all that much more special.

On my last outing, i was able to catch two new airlines that i have never seen before.  Well, actually, one of them really isn’t an airline per se.

One of the aircraft that i caught, is a company aircraft (Glencore Canada) and is one of my favourite types to catch: the old 737-200 series.

This particular 737-200 has the gravel kit installed, which makes it even more unique.

Photos taken with the Nikon D2X and the Nikkor 70-300mm VR G.

Who dares wins.

© ajmgatheringlight.wordpress.com, All Rights Reserved

Developing Negatives In Photoshop Elements 9

In my last post, i discussed getting back into film and how i was approaching that move in order to be more self-sufficient in regards to developing the film into photographs.

I know that i have not covered developing film; though, i will most likely cover that in a different post.  At this point in time, i am on the fence between developing it myself at home or taking it to my local camera store to develop.  

In regards to developing my own film at home, i came across something really cool some time ago. Check this out:  (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2017788873/lab-box-the-first-multi-format-daylight-loading-fi)

To begin the process of developing your “negative” in Photoshop, you first need a JPEG of your “negative”.  Here is a sample image of a “scanned” negative:

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

As you can see, it’s simply a JPEG – straight from my Olympus TG3 – of the developed 135 film.  This photo in no way has been altered or edited.

I scanned the negatives with my camera set to shooting JPEG.  It is probably best to scan them with your camera set to shooting RAW, seeing as you will have more flexibility with a RAW file.  

Once you have your JPEG of the negative, bring it into Photoshop – i will refer to Photoshop in this post, since that is what i used.

Once you have the JPEG of the negative in Photoshop, the first thing that you will want to do, is to crop out anything to the left, right, above and below the frame of the “photo” on the film.

I suppose if i wanted to, i could keep the perforations as part of the final JPEG that i will work with.  But, to me, it does not make much sense.  After all, you are turning an analog “file” into a digital file, so what’s the point?

Once you have cropped your JPEG file down to what you want to work with, you are now set to flip things around.

Step one: use Ctrl J to create a new layer.

Step two: use Ctrl I to invert the photo.

Now your “negative” has been inverted and it is starting to look more like a photograph.

Step three: click on “create new fill or adjustment level” and scroll up to “levels”.  Click on “levels”.

From here, you can mess about with the sliders or you can just click on “Auto”.

You now have a photograph that you can print or use on your blog.  Of course, you can also do further editing to the file if you wish.

Here is the result i got with the “negative” that i posted above:

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

This photograph is a perfect example of why you should not lay your developed film directly onto the screen of your smart device when using it as a lightbox.

All those white, squiggly little shapes that you see in the middle of the photo, are the pixels of the screen showing through.  This is why i said that you need to put a piece of white, translucent plastic between the screen and the film.

I made a little film holder out of cardboard that actually lifts the film up from the screen by a few millimeters.  Lifting the film up a few mm while still keeping it flat, is another way that you can avoid these artifacts in the final photo.

And there you have it!  A cheap and easy way to scan some old, developed 135 film into digital files that you can use to print or post to the web.

A few things to consider:

  1. This was merely an experiment on my part to simply understand the process and the feasibility of it.
  2. The photos that i ended up with are far from being good.  Some factors that may have affected the quality of the final photo are: the age of the film, not using the sharpest aperture on my camera’s lens, my camera not having an APS-C sensor (i used my TG3), using the lens at a wide-angle setting and perhaps because the film was not completely flat.
  3. Going back to #2, i really don’t want to sound like i am making excuses for the bad photos.  I simply wanted to point out some factors that might affect the quality of the final product.  This is the first time that i have ever done this, so i may not have performed some aspects of it correctly.
  4. As i said in #1, this was only an experiment.

I hope that i was able to peak your interest in scanning film in some way and that you will experiment with this yourself.

Who dares wins.

© ajmgatheringlight.wordpress.com, All Rights Reserved

Scanning 135 Film

For the last couple of years, i have wanted to get back into film.  Yes, film.

I know, i must be crazy to want to get back into a media format that has long seen it’s day – well, almost.

What could possibly posses me to want to get back into buying film, having to develop it and to top it all off, having to buy a whole new camera?

Actually, buying the new camera part is very attractive.  Don’t we all like getting “new” things in boxes?  I certainly do.  I’m like a kid in a candy store when i get a box with something new in it.   

Actually, my plan is to not necessarily take the normal route with this venture.  As a matter of fact, i am planning – and researching – on developing the film myself and then taking the developed negatives and scanning them myself in order to publish them on my blog or print them.

Does anyone really print their photos anymore?  Many people still do i think, but it is certainly not the norm as it once was when we were all shooting film.  But, in the end, with film, we really did not have many options but to print the photos, unless you wanted to hold the developed negatives up to a window or watch a slide show.  Honestly, there is just something so organic about being able to look at a photo album, instead of swiping across the screen of your “smart” device.

This is not something that i am taking lightly and that is the reason why i am not simply diving into this.

First of all, i need to find the right camera.  As of now, i have it narrowed down to a few Canon models (I have a 50mm FDn lens, so that is why i settled on a Canon).

I really don’t have a shopping list of specifics that i want, but i do want  two things: for the camera to manual in function and for it to be in fairly good condition.  There are several places online, such as B&H and KEH, where you can purchase used film cameras that are in good condition.

Most reputable online stores will have a grading system that you should pay attention to.  You should really try to purchase a camera that is graded pretty high, even if it does cost you a few extra dollars.

I personally have four cameras, three of which i purchased used from a store right here in Montreal.  It’s really a great advantage when you are able to inspect and use the equipment before buying it; however, sometimes you have to put your trust into the company that you are buying from when purchasing online.  If you are purchasing used equipment online, make sure you understand any return policy and make sure that there is some sort of warranty attached to the item.  You don’t want to be stuck with a fancy paperweight.

Now that i have figured out the most important factor in all of this, i am going to move onto the part of this venture that intrigues me the most: scanning the film.

I have some old, developed strips of 135 film lying around my house and one day, i got to thinking, “How can i scan this?” or more specifically, “If i got back into film, how easy would it be to scan this and make my own prints or publish it to my blog?”

This is where my experimenting began.

I have a scanner at home.  It’s actually part of one of those multi-function printers that makes you regret buying it in the first place, when it comes time to buy new ink for it.  Though, the scanner is not suited to scanning 135 film, because you need to have light coming from not only below the film, but also from above the film.  

Seeing as the scanner that i own is not designed to scan film, i had to find other means of scanning the film i had – buying a new flatbed scanner was out of the question for this experiment.

After some searching, i came across two solutions: 1) using a lightbox and a camera. 2) using a dedicated film scanner.

Wait a second, did i not say that buying a scanner was out of the question?  Well, let me explain.

I’m not talking about a flatbed scanner, which can cost you hundreds of dollars, if not more for higher end models.  What i am talking about, is dedicated scanners that are designed to only scan film and nothing else.  You can find these sorts of scanners on Amazon and at various online camera shops.

They look like little boxes and essentially, you feed your film into them in order for it to scan and take a “photo” of the negative, giving you a positive rendition of the negative or in laymen’s terms, an actual photo that you can print out or post up on your blog.

That’s one solution and depending on what film scanner you buy, you just may end up spending as much money as you would have on a flatbed scanner.

I have done some research on these dedicated film scanners and reviews are very mixed.  What i found was that people complained mostly about the software being used by the scanner or the fact that the software was not compatible with their computers OS.  In regards to the compatibility issues, that is an end user problem, where the buyer should have made sure that it would work with whatever version of OS they were running.  

The other solution that i came across in my research, was to scan the film with your camera.

What?

I heard about scanning film with a camera some time ago, but i never really bothered to learn what it was all about.  Well, this time around, i dug in and learnt what it meant to scan film with your camera.

Basically, when you scan film with your camera, you are taking a photo of the the negative and then taking that photo of the negative and developing it into a “positive” using Photoshop.

That is the very simple, “in a nutshell” explanation of it, but there is more to it than just that.

What you will need to scan film with your camera:

  1. A camera
  2. Developed 135 film
  3. Tripod – somewhat optional.
  4. A lightbox – explained a bit later.
  5. Photoshop or any other photo editing software that is functionally similar.
  6. Something to hold your film flat – explained later.

Let’s deal with the lightbox first.

When you are scanning film, you need light to enter from below and above the film.  That is why not every flatbed scanner or MFP printer with a scanner built in, can scan film.  If you do try to scan film on your MFP, well, the results will suck.

This is where a lightbox comes in and before you go spending money on one, please stick around to read what i am going to tell you next.

Sure, you can go out to a number of websites to buy a lightbox, but you most likely have a “lightbox” at home already.  I’m talking about your smartphone and/or your tablet.

To use your smartphone or tablet as a lightbox, you first have to download an app – yep, there’s an app for this – that will make your screen all white.  Once you get that done, you have yourself a lightbox!

I have Android devices, so i am not to sure what’s out there for you hipsters that use Apple.  In reality, anyway that you can have a blank white screen will suffice.  

The next thing that you want to do, is take your film and lay it flat on the screen.

My film was somewhat curved, so i had to use some dead 9v batteries to get it to lay flat on the screen.  

Now, because the film is right on the screen, you are going to pick up the pixels of the screen in your photo; therefore, you will need to put some white plastic (a piece of plastic bag or other thin white plastic) between the film and the screen.  This will “filter” out the pixels of your tablet/smartphone screen.

I was able to find a free lightbox app in the Google store, which i loaded up onto my smartphone.  It worked out fine; but of course, a bigger screen area would of been better.

At this point, this is where your camera comes into play.  You can use pretty much any camera to do this, but you will want to be able to get your camera as close as possible to the film – a camera that has a macro function or using a lens that has “macro” capability, is advisable.  Of course, an actual macro lens would be the best option.

Try to get the whole negative in the frame of your camera, but don’t worry about leaving some dead space around the negative, you can crop that out later.

Take your photo.

When i first did this, i used my Olympus TG3.  It has great macro capabilities and can get within centimeters of the subject.  I did it handheld, since i was able to get good shutter speed.  Using a tripod is a good idea if you are going to take numerous photos and don’t want to continually reposition yourself over the negative.  

What you end up with, is a photo of the negative.  From here, you need to bring it into Photoshop in order to turn it into a “positive” or a photo that you can print/post to your blog.

For now, i will stop here and show you some of the results i got by scanning some negatives with my camera and using my smartphone as a lightbox.

I took the above photos with a small, compact 35mm camera back in 2002.  The results of “scanning” the negatives and developing them in Photoshop are not the best, but this is merely an experiment for now.

In my next post, i will talk about using Photoshop to turn your negatives into positives.  I will also talk about some of the issues i came across doing this, as well as discuss some best practices.

Who dares wins.

© ajmgatheringlight.wordpress.com, All Rights Reserved

 

 

 

My Instagram

One of the reasons why i have not been very active here on my blog, is because i have been concentrating on my Instagram account.

Ok, to be honest, i did not necessarily make an effort to concentrate on my Instagram account.  Rather, it came down to it being more easy to post photos to Instagram, rather than to make a blog post.  Laziness would be a good noun to sum it up.

The majority of the photos posted to my Instagram, are photos that i have pulled off of my blog, while others have been taken with my mobile phone  – kind of what Instagram is all about, right?

Here is the url to my IG: https://www.instagram.com/englishmaninmontreal/

Untitled

If you are a photographer of any skill level and want your work to be seen, you need to show off your work on multiple social media platforms.

It isn’t easy work to keep up a blog and an IG account.  But, no one ever said that becoming noticed or even successful in this medium, would be easy and it isn’t.

Who dares wins.

© ajmgatheringlight.wordpress.com, All Rights Reserved

A Little Walk On The Mountain

It has been quite some time since i posted here.  As a matter of fact, my last post was on New Year’s day!  Therefore, it’s time for me to get back into a routine of posting at least a few times a week again.

Personally, i am not to crazy about shooting in the winter.  Aside from it being cold outside, everything is a bit grey and somber, unlike all the color that one can find in the summer time.

That’s just me though.

Outdoor conditions should not stop anyone – including me – from going outside with their camera and taking photographs.  Though, i am more inclined to go outside if it is sunny, like yesterday.

The above shots were taken with the Nikon D2x and the Nikkor 70-300mm VR G.

While we were up at the look out, i took the opportunity to take a succession of photos in order to stitch them together to make a panorama.  However, i think i may have started a little too far to the left with this one.

Untitled_Panorama2-1 copy

Keep in mind, if you are going to take a succession of photos to stitch into a panorama, taking vertical (portrait oriented) shots is the best way to go.  This gives you plenty of room at the head and foot of your photos when you crop afterwards.

Furthermore, always overlay your photos by about 20-30%.  If you do this, your stitching software will have an easier time blending the photos and your panorama will come out much better.

FYI: this post took more than eight hours to post.  My modem seems to be acting up; therefore, my ISP is sending me a new one and i hope the issue will be resolved.

Who dares wins.

© ajmgatheringlight.wordpress.com, All Rights Reserved